Impressions of Manila

Having spent a grand total of thirty eight hours in Manila my observations are, by necessity, superficial. I visited the airport, a hotel, the offices of a customer, a shopping mall and, mostly by taxis, the routes between these four places. What can I say about Manila that is worth saying, or, perhaps more importantly, hearing?

Manila reminds me a little of Singapore because the climate and some of the city's most obvious features (overhead walkways for crossing wide roads, palm trees and tall buildings) are broadly similar. It doesn't take long to realise that, unlike it's much wealthier neighbour across the sea, Manila's people are mostly quite poor and many of them live in what appear to be crude, cramped and unpleasant slums.

The poor quality of housing is apparent during the journey from the airport to Makati City, where the rich live and the larger hotels are located. Shacks, badly maintained apartment blocks and rough dwellings made from corrugated iron are easily spotted, often occupied by people wearing shorts, t-shirts and flip-flops or cheap sandals. It's difficult to be certain as you speed past in the hotel Mercedes but these people don't look wealthy.

And now that I've mentioned roads, what about the driving? Don't spare the horn and push through whatever gap you think you can see seem to be the rules for driving in Manila. Lane discipline is non-existent and gridlock is avoided only because huge numbers of traffic cops direct the flow and, miraculously, keep things moving (just). Small vans and minibuses crammed with passengers jostle with coaches, sidecar-equipped (multi-person carrying) motorcycles, private cars and battered taxis for space on the often wide but still crowded roads. Don't drive in Manila.

In Makati (but not in the poorer parts of Manila Metro) security theatre seems to be a major source of employment. Every office, shopping mall, hotel and private compound has armed guards (pistols, mostly, but also pump-action shotguns and automatic rifles) at the entrances who wave wands over visitors' bags and pretend to be looking for something. Arrive by car and guards with mirrors will "inspect" the underside of the vehicle, presumably looking for bombs. This is, without doubt, the most conspicuously armed city I've ever visited and it doesn't feel safe.

The few locals I met in the hotel, shops or offices spoke English and were polite and friendly. From that perspective, Manila is an easy place to visit. The airport is almost the opposite, seemingly designed to crush the spirit and discourage return visits. Don't plan to spend time in Manila airport, even if you have access to a business lounge.

There's probably more I could write but that will do for an introduction. Would I return for leisure? I don't think so, and certainly not without a list of things to do that would take me out of the city. Manila isn't really geared for tourists, it's just a residential metropolis; avoid if you can.