That would not normally be much of a boast - restaurants in London seem to have lifespans measured in months rather than years - but Rules opened in 1798 and is still going strong in Maiden Lane, Covent Garden, 213 years later. Given the age of the restaurant I was expecting an intersecting atmosphere and a well-honed menu; both were delivered in style but, as the interior of the restaurant is (or should be) merely the background to the food, let us move straight to the meat of the issue - the meat.
And what meat it was! At my table we sampled the steak and kidney pudding, the steak, a fish dish of some sort (apparently very good, but fish doesn't really float my boat) and the pork. All were reported as absolutely top notch but the star was the steak and kidney pudding with summer beans; the blend and quality of the ingredients and the preparation made it rather special.
My previous experience of the old S&KP has been rather disappointing. The steak is often dry and of poor quality, the kidney scarce, the gravy weak, thin and heavily peppered (never a good sign - I can't help thinking that over-peppering a meal is a sign of a nervous chef). Rules, by contrast, serve a pudding that embarrasses the competition, delights the diner and suggests a serious risk to waistlines amongst regular patrons.
Accompanied by a bottle of red wine and a side order of chips, the main course barely touched the sides on the way down. It was, by any measure, spectacularly good and I look forward to many repeat visits.
And the deserts? Singling out a particular course for praise is often a sign that other courses, or maybe the service, were less than good, failing to meet the standards laid down by their illustrious compatriot. Don't be fooled. Our table took the plum trifle, lemon meringue pie, apple crumble and golden syrup pudding (both served with excellent traditional custard), all of which were epic (I don't like plum trifle, so I report instead the trifle experiences of a fellow diner).
The lemon was strong and tangy and paired with a thick crust of meringue over a nice pastry base. In a lesser restaurant, where quantity is not an important attribute in a meal, the lemon meringue would have served three or four people; in Rules my wife struggled, giving up halfway through (she had already consumed most of a vast steak, so can be forgiven).
My advice, if you plan to eat at Rules, is to skip lunch and take a light breakfast. We soldiered through our main courses (having skipped the first course) before being defeated by the deserts but better preparation may have allowed us to finish a great meal, possibly even with cheese and coffee. Instead, the following day was spent avoiding restaurants and exercise, remembering the puddings and searching for light, calorie-free salads.
Rules; we will return for a second attempt.
And what meat it was! At my table we sampled the steak and kidney pudding, the steak, a fish dish of some sort (apparently very good, but fish doesn't really float my boat) and the pork. All were reported as absolutely top notch but the star was the steak and kidney pudding with summer beans; the blend and quality of the ingredients and the preparation made it rather special.
My previous experience of the old S&KP has been rather disappointing. The steak is often dry and of poor quality, the kidney scarce, the gravy weak, thin and heavily peppered (never a good sign - I can't help thinking that over-peppering a meal is a sign of a nervous chef). Rules, by contrast, serve a pudding that embarrasses the competition, delights the diner and suggests a serious risk to waistlines amongst regular patrons.
Accompanied by a bottle of red wine and a side order of chips, the main course barely touched the sides on the way down. It was, by any measure, spectacularly good and I look forward to many repeat visits.
And the deserts? Singling out a particular course for praise is often a sign that other courses, or maybe the service, were less than good, failing to meet the standards laid down by their illustrious compatriot. Don't be fooled. Our table took the plum trifle, lemon meringue pie, apple crumble and golden syrup pudding (both served with excellent traditional custard), all of which were epic (I don't like plum trifle, so I report instead the trifle experiences of a fellow diner).
The lemon was strong and tangy and paired with a thick crust of meringue over a nice pastry base. In a lesser restaurant, where quantity is not an important attribute in a meal, the lemon meringue would have served three or four people; in Rules my wife struggled, giving up halfway through (she had already consumed most of a vast steak, so can be forgiven).
My advice, if you plan to eat at Rules, is to skip lunch and take a light breakfast. We soldiered through our main courses (having skipped the first course) before being defeated by the deserts but better preparation may have allowed us to finish a great meal, possibly even with cheese and coffee. Instead, the following day was spent avoiding restaurants and exercise, remembering the puddings and searching for light, calorie-free salads.
Rules; we will return for a second attempt.
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